The concerns over the lack of Puppy Socialisation and the need for Vaccinations explained Doglistener

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Puppy Vaccinations Vs Socialisation

Puppy Vaccinations, Socialisation and Classes

Vets Ignoring Vaccine Manufacturers RecommendationsVaccinations and Socialisation
You can have your new arrival meet other dogs and cats before your puppy vaccinations are complete.

As long as those other animals have been vaccinated. 

There is a vaccination that allows your dog to be fully covered at about 10.5 weeks. This is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L

The L at the end stands for Leptospirosis. You should read my article on the very real dangers of this vaccination.

With regard to vaccinations, It will depend on your Vet when he or she recommends you can take out your puppy after its final inoculations.

Some say two weeks, others one week and some who may state 48 hours, especially if they have been behaviourally trained.

There as some well-informed vets that say mix them with other vaccinated dogs and lots of people from the day you get them.

The second vaccination is not a booster it is exactly the same as the first vaccination, it just to make sure that the first one worked which it probably does in 99% of cases

In the end, you should take due consideration of the potential risks and any outbreaks of canine diseases in your area. Perhaps speak to a number of vets locally and then make your decision on the information you are given. 

My personal opinion is early socialisation is so vital, as to almost override any other consideration. Within reason of course if there an outbreak in your area of say parvovirus then that has to be taken into consideration. I always take my puppies out after the first jab I just do not let them go over to the park

The article explains how many of our vets are ignoring vaccine protocol issued by the vaccine manufacturers and the BVA (British Veterinary Association) and the WSAVA (World Small Animal Veterinary Association)

It is vital that you read this as it affects the health and well-being of our dogs.  It also explains the reason I stated: "As long as the dog has been vaccinated in the last three years." (1) Vaccine Dangers

Springer Spaniel at one of my classesTraining
Make training fun and enjoyable, don't make it so hard or boring that your dog yawns through the whole lesson.

Begin to teach your puppy to understand sit, come, and down from the day you get her/him. 

Use toys, treats and chews for playtime and as a special treats when they do something right. Verbal praise is also important.

Make sure you are controlling the game by taking these items away then giving them back or throwing them for the pup to retrieve.

At the end of the game, make sure that you finish by taking the toy away, replacing it with a treat to show he has not lost anything.

By these actions, you have helped train the dog not to resource guard. That is a problem I have to deal with on a very regular basis. Most guarding behaviour starts from these all-important critical periods. 

By gently exchanging treats or verbal praise for things the pup may have can help. Not only to avoid food guarding and possession aggression problems but to discourage all bad habits from day one.

If your puppy jumps up then discourage him by saying "OFF" using body language and a turn of the head away. Most dogs learn to control their bite when nipping their litter-mates whilst playing. This is commonly called bite inhibition. If they bite another puppy too hard, the pup will cry out and turn their head away.

The puppy that had bitten hard then learns that it is the end of the play. he learns to control the power of the bite with friends and family so interaction can continue.

A device I designed and developed called the Jingler can be invaluable for creating a mutual respect between owner and dog. It will help stop jumping up and biting and will teach the puppy to walk to heel as it gets a little older See (2) My Products and the Jingler

Biting and Nipping
Most puppies when they arrive in our homes for the first time, treat us and our families as playmates, and may nip bite and lunge at us. By copying the litter-mates behaviour, and crying out plus body language helps to discourage this natural behaviour. No matter how gently your puppy bites you must react as if it has taken a chunk out of you until the biting is almost like a butterfly landing on your hand.

This discourages biting and mouthing in later life. Make sure that your children and any others that visit do not treat the puppy as a plaything or toy. Teach the children and any other visitor that they must abide by your rules regarding your new pet. see my article on Bite Inhibition

Pup at one of my classes held in HamptonSocialisation and Training Classes
It is vitally important to socialise your dog at an early age.  

It is a known fact that socialisation is so vitally important that it almost outweighs all other considerations.

The fear of disease or infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations.

By taking this stance they risk ending up with fearful dogs, that may become aggressive or have serious behavioural problems in later life. 

I allow pups in my classes from the age of eight weeks of age, as long as they have their 1st vaccination.

If you wait too long you will have missed the opportunity of allowing your dogs to be able to meet and greet other dogs, children and strangers.

Pups learn this all-important lessons up to about 16 weeks of age. Body language plays an important role in this process.

This lesson once learned is rarely forgotten. Most importantly pups learn the meeting and greeting techniques from other puppies of a similar age. not as many people believe from adult dogs. I encourage children to attend and play pass the puppy where everybody gets the chance to handle all the other puppies in a positive and kind way.

The majority of the dogs I have to treat for behavioural difficulties have rarely been to a GOOD puppy class. Therefore Puppy classes are an absolute must.

it is not a case of should I take my dog, but where are the best classes and how early can I get my dog to attend. The earlier you can get to classes the better, as the pup will benefit more in the early weeks of its life.

My classes are run on a six-week basis. NEVER a roll on roll off system which to my mind counterproductive. Be careful of any Puppy Behaviourist or Trainer who does not run Puppy Classes. This means they do not understand the importance of these dogs meeting under puppies and strangers in a controlled environment.

See details of my classes and what to look for in a Puppy Class. if you are not able to attend my own (3) Puppy Classes.


Is your dog pulling on the Lead, Unruly, Bad Recall, Aggressive, Jumping Up Nipping and Biting? 
See my article and Video Clips on how to stop this.
The Jingler


(1) Vaccine Dangers

(2) My Products and the Jingler

(3)  Puppy Classes.

Stan Rawlinson 2013

Updated 2018


Can you please advise. My Pointer puppy was vaccinaTed at 8 weeks and microchipped by the breeder'so vet with Canigen DHPPI and Canigen L4. I was advised to reactivated at 12 weeks, however I am unhappy to reuse the L4. Would you advise continuing or abandoning the L4 and restart the L2 vaccine?

Stan Rawlinson's picture

My four working Cockers Bushy ParkI do not vaccinate my dogs for Lepto even though they swim daily and are working gundogs.

Vaccination with leptospira  is fraught with problems.  Of major concern is the fact that leptospira vaccines do not protect  the dog from infection with leptospira  or of renal colonization. 

Leptospira  vaccines have little effect on the maintenance and transmission of the disease in the animal populations in which they are applied.  

The ineffectiveness of the vaccine is due in part to the many leptospirosis serovars and variability of pathogenic  strains which are not addressed with vaccines.

May I recommend coming back in a week and i will have written an article on the very real dangers of Lepto 4 for all ages of dogs. Read this in the meantime. 


Please, could you advise me? We will be getting a puppy in August and he will be around 10 weeks old. He will have had his first vaccination.
Unfortunately, his mother passed away under anaesthetic during an emergency Caesarean section, our puppy was born first and born naturally. There were 6 pups all together. The pups fed from a surrogate mother for a week and were then hand-reared.
We are worried to let him onto our garden for toilet training even after he had his 1st vaccination at 8 weeks because we have foxes that visit our garden frequently and we have very rarely seen single rats (There are no nests in the garden) and they seem to be using the garden as a run-through as I said very rarely.
We are worried because he might be less immune to picking up diseases than a puppy who would’ve fed from their mother for the usual amount of time if she had survived. However, we want to start training him to go into the garden for toilet training as soon as we get him home.
Apparently, at the vets in our area, they don’t give the second vaccination until 12 weeks old, although there is one that can be given at 10 weeks old if we prefer but it won’t cover him for all of the others he will get at 12 weeks old.
He is going out into the breeders garden and seems to be fine, but because we know we have foxes and the occasional rat it’s made us apprehensive. We don’t want to do the wrong thing. I would be so grateful for the advice .

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