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The Jingler | Leads
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My Approach
Behavioural and Obedience I am the original Doglistener and used that name well before the book "The Dog Listener" was published or even thought of. I would never affiliate or put my name to any individual or organisation that uses rank reduction for every case they deal with. I do not believe these techniques work, especially over the long term. Only about 15% of behavioural cases that I treat are related to pack mentality. The proponents of these schemes believe that 100% of all problems are pack orientated. "If only it were that easy" I have written an article called the Alpha Myth which effectively debunks the rank reduction/amichien bonding process. And explains how you can actually get real results over the long term. I have many thousands of clients who can attest to that I deal with all forms of behavioural and obedience problems especially, aggression, both interdog and inter human, fear aggression, timidity, barking, fighting, chewing, personality disorders, separation anxiety, biting, nipping, jumping up, toileting, pulling on the lead and recall. I am an acknowledged expert on canine communication, and the rearing and development stages, including the critical periods for puppies and young dogs. I am also used as an expert witness in cases of
criminal prosecution under the Dangerous Dogs Act, 1991. And have an excellent reputation in defending the actions of dogs that find themselves on the wrong side of the law. The beauty of this technique unlike devices like the Halti or chest harness, this actually teaches the dog not to pull and as long as you are not near a road you can walk your dog off lead and he will still stay with you. Their is only one aid to walking to heel I would ever recommend other than the Jingler technique and that is the Canny Collar, it is way above any of the others in quality and use. I am an strong advocate of operant conditioning, though I generally do not use clickers. Not because they do not work, they do and very effectively. The problem is that most dog owners are not professional trainers and they tend to struggle with the technique. You have a lead, a treat, and now you add in a clicker. You have already run out of hands, and then you have to get the timing just right ,clicking and treating in one smooth action at the exact time to create the most affect. And who has a clicker when you need one? You change your clothes and they are not where you expected them. They often get lost or misplaced and after about three weeks most people give up and put them in the top draw. Which is such a shame as they really do work. I still use these techniques but instead of a clicker I use a target word. You can't put your mouth in the top draw and you will not need any extra hand. Your timing is related to your mouth which in these circumstances is far easier than using your hands. Clickers are their to mark good behaviour and to shape behaviours and training. The Jingler to some extent is the opposite, It marks bad behaviour and tells the dog when it has done something wrong. You cannot ignore bad behaviour, it will not miraculously go away if you just praise the good behaviour and ignore the bad. Unfortunately there are lots of trainers out their who state they ONLY ever use positive reinforcement. Then proceed to put a dog on its lead. I point out that this is negative punishment in the operant conditioning spectrum. Negative Punishment is taking away something the dog enjoys and likes. In this case the freedom to run around and enjoy itself, the lead totally inhibits this action. See Killing With Kindness. I always start my session initially at your own home, this is where most behavioural and training problems initially occur. I cannot understand why trainers or behaviourist's hold clinics in veterinary surgeries or their office. Dogs act very differently when outside their own environment which often subdues their natural inclinations, masking the very behaviour I need to observe to treat your dog successfully. Are you aware that the people that say they are "Clinical Behaviourists" are nothing more than behaviourists that see your dog in a clinic? I believe they are falsely trying to impart that they are someone with clinical knowledge and unless they are veterinary trained would be incorrect. I am intrinsically against residential training. I believe it is open to abuse and I have seen and heard of cases of abuse whilst the dogs are in some of these establishments. The problems with residential training is it does not work at the level that is required to change behavioural problems. Most aberrant behaviour is about owner/dog relationships. Not pack or Alpha behaviour, owners reinforcing, (often by accident) bad behaviour or even causing fear, timidity and aggression by rewarding certain actions. Therefore how could a residential course possibly sort these problems out? Many of these trainers are ex-military or police and often work on the premise that your dog will do as it is told or else. That is not good enough in today's enlightened times, where positive reinforcement, operant conditioning and praise is far more successful and less stressful for our much loved pets. I am advocate of positive reinforcement. However I also believe that our pets should understand boundaries and what is acceptable. I am certainly not of the mind set like that do not believe in correcting bad behaviour. Humans as well as dogs need boundaries, guidelines and parameters. They need to know right from wrong, just ignoring the bad behaviour and praising the good is not logical or successful I still hear the old adage, "no bad dogs only bad owners" that is absolute Nonsense. I see bad dogs with good owners, and good dogs with bad owners. Having said that, a large percentage of my cases are caused through the inability of the owner to communicate effectively,with their dogs. I tend to work on a 75 to 25 ratio. Training the humans 75% of the time and the dogs the other 25%.. Guess which is the most difficult animal on earth to train? Let me give you a clue if you were to pick the dog you would be wrong .I see myself as the bridge which will allow you to communicate and co-exist happily with your pet.  Basic ObedienceThe basic requirements for a happy and contented dog, sit, stay, heel, recall, walking to heel and general basic training helps your dog know it's place in the family pack system. It stimulates your dogs mental processes which often helps other behavioural problems, such as frustration, lack of confidence, and the inability to communicate effectively between dog and owner.This is Kai who is my Rescue German Shepherd. He is one of life's smilers. Kai had five owners in his first 8 months of life. Puppy Assessment Preferably as young as possible. This is a full personality assessments at your own home. It includes an appraisal test to indicate your dog's character, dominance, and possible aggression in later life, it also indicates your puppies ability to learn, and points to the methods that work best for your individual puppy, allowing you to tailor your training to your dogs individual temperament, aptitude and ability. This is extremely important area and should be considered for all new dogs but especially first time dog owners. The assessment also covers sleeping arrangements, biting and mouthing, jumping up, feeding, toileting, initial training schedules, training expectations crate training and important articles including Critical Periods in a Puppies Psychological Growth an excellent pointer to what you can expect in your pup's first 14 months, and my easy to understand list of the do's and don'ts of dog ownership. Plus The Art of Communication which explains how to communicate effectively with your pet, what commands to give, when to praise and more importantly when not to. You also get a checklist for socialising your puppy Puppy Socialisation Chart and my articles on first aid for pets and teaching basic obedience. These articles plus the assessment and checklists will give you and your dog a solid and structured format to work with, and will put you well on the road to a happy and harmonious relationships...Puppy Classes  For pups under 18 weeks of age at the start of the 6 week sessions. Puppy socialisation classes are the bedrock for a happy and contented adult dog. Pups learn more between 0 and 16 weeks than the remainder of their lives times ten. Training and socialisation at this time will be the most beneficial they ever receive. Gone are the days when we did not start training until 6 months. It was that belief along with not setting rules and boundaries that got dogs rehomed and euthanised. Early training and puppy socialisation impresses on your puppy that it should not be aggressive, forceful or a bully, it helps to teach manners towards other dogs and people. It gets them used to being handled and approached by strangers and children, and to meet, greet, and play with other dogs in a controlled manner. I have a maximum of 8/10 per class. These are held on Monday evenings at 6.30 Methodist church hall in Hampton. You will need to book in advance as my classes are extremely popular and normally fill up very quickly. If the weather is warm we have the classes outside. click HERE to see next available class plus costs. Recall Probably one of the most common problems I am asked to deal with. I have a unique technique that will stop your dog pulling almost immediately without the use of gimmicks like halti's, harnesses, and other aids which does not train your dog not to pull only restricts the dog. My method actually teaches the dog to heel correctly both on and off the lead These are some of my dogs at present In the picture from left to right is: Charlie.("Jack Russell/Dachshund cross "Rescue" )  Stan Rawlinson MTCBPT. MPAACT A.dipCCB Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 30 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, Middlesex. Sussex, Hampshire, Kent and Berkshire. But is prepared to travel further if required Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centre's, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, Shooting Times and Pet Owner Magazine. He has also worked for Disney in dog communication and behavioural and training matters and has been on many TV and Radio programs . He is also the current Chairman of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers. |
I believe it takes a minimum of seven years to become reasonably experienced and knowledgeable as a dog behaviour and training expert.
The idea that you can go through a foundation and advanced course in just days rather than years is absolute rubbish. Some of these organisations take people who have never worked with dogs and in some cases never even owned one. Then put them through a short course and let them out on the unsuspecting general public. I often have to follow in after these "behaviourists" and have to work twice as hard to undo the problems these amateurs have created.
This led me to design and develop the "Jingler" Many trainer and behaviourists as well as thousands of my clients are now starting to use my "Jingler" methods for many problems, including jumping up, pulling on the lead, aggression, both interdog and inter human, predatory chasing and much much more. 
We are all aware that most behavioural problems are owner/dog/home/related, household dynamics plays an important role in shaping your pets needs. It is in the home that the behavioural problems should be initially seen and where treatment should begin Not some remote boot-camp where we cannot see what they are doing to our dogs. Or in a clinic.